There are few waterfalls in the Northern Territory as worth remembering as those in Kakadu National Park, be it the monsoon forest at Maguk or the sheer drop of Jim Jim Falls. But one has to contend with the fact that access is dictated by the wet season, the state of the road, high water, crocodiles and the odd closure.
This is meant to be a straightforward guide to the park’s finest waterfalls and the walks they offer, and to let you know where one can swim—perhaps in this Kakadu plunge pool—and how to verify if a waterfall is open from Cooinda or Darwin before making the trip. I am Damian Rockwell and my years of travelling have taught me that any plan for a waterfall is only as sound as the road intel, footwear and spare lunch you put into it.
Kakadu Waterfalls At A Glance
With an area of close to 20,000 square kilometres, the waterfalls in Kakadu are not set out in neat rows like bathroom taps. You will find long distances and spotty phone service; a walk that seems short on paper can drag on in the heat and rain once you have taken your quota of photographs.
The World Heritage-listed park is marked by cultural and environmental contrasts between its escarpment country, wetlands and monsoon forests. Before you head out, make sure to consult Parks Australia for the official word on permits, road conditions and any closures.
| Waterfall | Area | Typical Access | What to expect | For whom |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jim Jim Falls | Sealed then rougher going; variable | Dramatic gorge, high escarpment and a seasonal plunge pool | Those with time and the right transport | |
| Twin Falls | A longer route, 4WD and seasonal limitations may be in force | The gorge and rock walls, water access when in operation | Guided tours or the experienced | |
| Gunlom Falls | Road and foot access as per conditions | Elevated views, rock pools and Waterfall Creek | Fit walkers who have read the latest report | |
| Maguk Falls | Bush track off the road | A compact walk, natural swimming and monsoon forest | A half-day for the traveller | |
| Motor Car Falls | Road matters here; bush access is lengthy | A remote feel and a quiet creek | Independent and well-prepared |
Consider the above table a guide for planning purposes only. Parks Australia will shut down tracks, roads and swimming if there is flooding, fire or erosion and it is deemed unsafe. And “open” does not always mean you can get to the waterhole, merely the car park, so do not take the wording for granted.
Jim Jim Falls And Twin Falls
Any itinerary for Kakadu waterfalls will likely put Jim Jim and Twin Falls front and centre. They are in the park’s escarpment country where the scale of the landscape and its dramatic cliffs are something you cannot appreciate on a phone screen.
Do not make the error of regarding them as two quick roadside affairs. They demand patience and a thorough check on access, especially after heavy rain or in the wet season.
Getting the most out of Jim Jim Falls
When the water is running hard, Jim Jim Falls is at its best, though the very conditions that put on the show can limit your access. In drier months you can make your way to the base and view the large seasonal plunge pool under the escarpment, but come later in the dry season the flow will be much diminished and you should adjust your expectations accordingly.
Closures are sometimes necessary due to maintenance, rockfall, crocodile activity or simply because the road is in poor order. It is not a sign the attraction is gone, only that it is not safe for the public.
Make allowances for more time than the map would have you think. There will be corrugations to slow you down, uneven ground to negotiate and wildlife to stop for. I have been known to schedule a “quick look” at some remote falls and find myself with a warm sandwich by the car keeping an eye on the clock. The waterfall was fine, my management of the day was not.
On the subject of Twin Falls
The gorge at Twin Falls is famous for its towering walls and the seasonal water access. What one visitor has reported may not be the way things are today; the final part could call for wading, a boat shuttle or a walk. When the water is up, entry to the gorge is all but impossible. There are places where the gorge is open but one would do well to have a certain amount of fitness, balance and confidence for the wet rocks. And for those who lack a vehicle fit for the rough Top End tracks or the experience to go it alone, a guide makes transport and interpretation a good deal easier.
Is Jim Jim Falls worth making the trip? Provided you have the time and can put up with the vagaries of the season and whatever conditions present themselves, yes. But it is not for the traveller who wants a short walk with no surprises, a path to the water that is fully accessible or dependable phone service.
Gunlom Falls And Waterfall Creek
The combination of a waterfall, rock pools and the broad expanse of Kakadu country on offer at Gunlom Falls and Waterfall Creek makes it a favourite. It may seem simple enough on paper but on the day you will want to check your road access, what the rules are for swimming and the like.
One thing Gunlom has a way of teaching visitors is that a well photographed spot is not necessarily open for business. For environmental, cultural or safety reasons there can be closures, so heed the park’s current advice over something you saw on social media.
A Walk At Gunlom
Whether you make for the lower pools or put in the climb to the higher vantage point (when it is open) is up to you. Be aware the ascent is hot and exposed with scant shade when you need it most. Make an early start and have ample water; the descent is where loose footing and weary legs tend to get the better of you.
This is a proper bush walk for those who can stand the heat. If you are without a plan for a small child, in smooth soled sandals or with one bottle of water to your name, look elsewhere. The Top End does not cater for optimistic hydration.
Maguk Falls And Other Waterfalls
With its road and track open, Maguk Falls is among the more amenable outings in Kakadu. You are walking through monsoon forest to some natural swimming holes and a seasonal waterfall, and the shade is a welcome relief from an escarpment walk.
Still, one should be careful. After rain the track is apt to be muddy and rocks by the water slick. Do not think of it as a public pool with a lifeguard behind a gum tree.
Compare The Quieter Options
For a longer and more remote affair away from the crowds, Motor Car Falls is an option at Motor Car Falls. Sensible preparation is called for: good footwear, provisions and sun protection, and know your turnaround time. See if the route is open first.
Then there is Ikoymarrwa Falls (or Ikoymarrwa as some visitor info will have it). As it is on Aboriginal land under local cultural management, there are access arrangements to be had. Do not presume a marked waterfall is free for all; observe the closure and permit advice.
Karnamarr campground is handy if you intend to put in more time in the area, though facilities are not fixed. Should wet roads or a closure put paid to your plans, Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) and Yellow Water (Ngurrungurrudjba) are sensible alternatives, if not waterfall destinations.
Swimming In Kakadu
Parks Australia will tell you where it is safe to swim at some of the falls. But do not be taken in by a pool or creek that is clear and calm and assume it is swimmable.
The matter of crocodiles is paramount. Both saltwater and freshwater varieties are to be found in the Top End and their presence is not always apparent from the bank. Stick to the designated areas and the signs and vacate the water if told to by officials.
What You Expect And What You Get
You may expect to be under a roaring cascade. In reality the water could be low, the area closed or the walk too hot, and you might find the best of it is to take off your boots and sit in the monsoon forest.
Look for any warnings before you get in a pool, watch for submerged rocks and the like. And do not jump off a boulder or cliff unless the park says you can; it is not an invitation to put your insurance to the test.
When To Visit
Road travel and walking are a good deal easier in the dry season, yet one will notice every waterfall has its own way of changing with the months. Then comes the wet season with its deluge of rain, the power of the water, flooding and humidity to contend with, not to mention roads that may be closed. Add in cyclone alerts from November through April and plans for the Top End can be disrupted.
It is a matter of what you wish to see. For those after some drama in the water flow the wetter months are more to their liking, provided they do not mind limited access. Others who put a premium on swimming, a good hike and roads they can rely on will make for the dry season, though it is prudent to look over any closures and the temperature before setting out.
Match Your Timing To Conditions
In the early part of the dry season you might find creeks still well stocked and tracks bearing the marks of the wet season. As the season wears on access is sure to be more dependable but there are waterfalls that have little left of them save damp rock or a pool.
If the waterfalls are your reason for being here, put an extra day in your itinerary as a buffer against a road closure or 4WD transfer running late, or simply because the heat would make a long walk unwise. One day only? Make for the open and reachable part of the falls that your vehicle can handle.
How To Get To The Waterfalls In Kakadu
The majority of visitors will put in the drive from Darwin and make their way in on the park’s principal roads and tracks. Do not underestimate the distances or forget to plan for fuel; a road train will slow you down. A map of Kakadu National Park is of little use without the current access report to tell you if the line you are looking at is actually open.
Some of the better sealed approaches can be done in a standard car but for rougher terrain a 4WD is called for, if not essential. Read the fine print of a hire agreement before venturing onto unsealed ground: certain companies will not allow it and a ruined tyre is no cheap memento.
To Go It Alone Or With A Guide
There is merit in a guided tour from Cooinda or Darwin for the transport and local insight, and to have another pair of eyes on the road while you take in the escarpment. But the self sufficient driver who likes to have his own food, fuel and recovery gear sorted will be content to go it alone.
You can get a feel for a route with an app like AllTrails but do not put stock in them over what the park says. What a user has put up could be outdated or of an access type that is not allowed any longer; consider it a reference point at best.
Kakadu Waterfall Safety Checklist
Start thinking about safety before you have your breakfast. The person who has read the access report is the one who will spare the group an arduous U-turn when conditions turn.
- See what Parks Australia has to say on permits, swimming, road conditions and any present day restrictions.
- Take on board more water than you think you need along with electrolytes and rations.
- Leave the smooth sandals at home, they are no good on a wet rock; enclosed shoes with some grip are called for.
- In the event of patchy phone coverage, let someone know where you are headed and when to expect you back.
- Heed any crocodile warnings and confine your swimming to the areas put aside for it.
- Have on hand a hat, sun and insect protection, first-aid kit and a bag for rubbish.
- Factor in some extra time for the heat, road trains, corrugations, slower walking and the odd stop.
- If the plan is rendered unsafe by the elements, high water, fire or plain fatigue, then turn back.
There is no need to feed wildlife or intrude on closed ground for the sake of a photograph. Waterholes and waterfalls are part of a living cultural landscape, not just a pretty setting for a swim; show the appropriate respect for Aboriginal sites and land permits as well as local rules of access.
Common Questions Before You Go
I would want these put to rest before I put anything in the esky. Put simply, Kakadu is best with up to date information, a good head for the heat and plans that can be adapted.
What Are The Best Waterfalls In The Park?
Jim Jim, Twin, Gunlom and Maguk are the ones most people make a point of seeing. But it comes down to what is open, your vehicle, how much time and walking ability you have and if you are allowed to get in the water. For a more specialised or quiet affair, one might prefer Motor Car or Ikoymarrwa Falls.
Why Is Jim Jim Falls Off Limits?
Flooding, a rockfall, fire, track hazards or crocodiles will see Jim Jim Falls close, as will other matters of safety and management. These are conditions-based closures and subject to change. Do not trust an old guidebook or a deceptively recent photo, consult Parks Australia for the latest word.
Is It Worth Making The Trip To Jim Jim?
Provided the way in is open and you can spare the time for the drive and the walk, yes. Those who do not mind some uncertainty and remote roads will find it so. Expecting an easy stop at the side of the road or a waterfall with guaranteed flow will only lead to disappointment.
Are The Waterfalls Open?
You may find some are and others are not. Weather, maintenance, road damage or crocodile activity can alter the status. “Kakadu waterfalls open” is not a blanket term for the whole park. See to it you have the current access report before you set off, and on the day itself if you can.
A 4WD A Necessity?
Not in every case. With dry conditions and open roads a conventional vehicle will do for certain routes, for others you will need 4WD or a guide. Before heading out of Darwin check the terms with your hire company and the state of the roads for the particular waterfall in question.
How To Make A Day Of It
Do not treat Kakadu’s waterfalls as a list of attractions to be ticked off but as a seasonal excursion in the bush. Set aside ample time for one major area and have a contingency in mind for Burrungkuy or Yellow Water. Take your supplies and a backup plan.
Then there is the escarpment and the monsoon forest, the light and the quiet of the road, and the satisfaction of being back in the car before the mozzies have had time to form a committee. That is the reward. Plan accordingly, be croc-wise and let the day be what it is.
